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Apparently-To: john.smith@gravis.com
GUS Daily Digest Sun, 24 Oct 93 0:07 MDT Volume 7: Issue 23
Today's Topics:
ADPCM decode executable??
Composers...
Creating a headphone/speaker volume control for your GUS
GUS Daily Digest V7 #22 (2 msgs)
GUS recording under Windows?
Joystick port on GUS
Microphones and the GUS
ORDERING GUS VIA (E)MAI
stuff...
Tiger Software
Standard Info:
- Meta-info about the GUS can be found at the end of the Digest.
- Before you ask a question, please READ THE FAQ.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1993 01:04:14 +1000
From: adriano ennio raiola <adrianr@mullian.ee.mu.OZ.AU>
Subject: ADPCM decode executable??
Hi, can someone PLEASE upload compiled versions of the source files in the
adpcmsrc.zip archive just uploaded to epas, so that those of us without
a C compiler can try the adpcm compressed samples..
many thanks to whoever can oblige
adrian
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1993 10:38:10 -0400
From: Alex Harden <harden@acsu.buffalo.edu>
Subject: Re: Composers...
>Date: Fri, 22 Oct 93 00:03:46 EST
>From: John Fulmer <quixote@metrobbs.com>
>Subject: Composers.....
>Does anyone know of some good MOD and 669 composition programs that wil
>will work with GUS?
>I suppose MODed will, but I really want a good 669 program. Farandole
>doen't like my VGA card and Composer669 doesn't recognize my GUS as a
>sound blaster (even with SBOS 2.0b10)
>anyone have any ideas?
john, you may want to re-try Farandole....i was trying to get it up and
running yesterday, and the main problem was that the program wants to set
the video mode for you. i have a RealTek VGA card that isn't directly
supported by the program, but what i did to get the right vmode was to
manually set the right one myself using the card's vmode program (the mode
# i needed was 1D hex (23 dec)), and then starting up the program with
far /m23 (/m[my mode number in dec]). this worked for me, and may work for
you too. it looks like a really cool program!
good going daniel potter! 8)
hope i helped,
alex
--
alex harden -- university at buffalo -- harden@acsu.buffalo.edu
----------------------- bassist at large ----------------------
rickenbacker - ibanez - hartke - peavey - boss - dod/digitech
"i'm not a funky guy." -- geddy lee of rush
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 93 1:12:22 MDT
From: Steve "Bongos" Larson <larson@ee.ualberta.ca>
Subject: Creating a headphone/speaker volume control for your GUS
Howdy GUSland.
I thought I'd pass on some advice...
Antonio writes:
#
# i've finally seen and heard the demo on a 200W system (no surround sound but
# with headphones on as well, it works!) and it's quite good, but only if
# connected through the line-out, i've taken the headphones and connected
# them to the amp-out and it just didn't sound as good, i suspect it may be
# due to the volume since most of the louder parts of the sound are subject
# to some serious clipping.... is there any way to turn down the volume
For your own benefit, and depending on the design of the amplifier you're
using, NEVER CONNECT AN AMPLIFIED SIGNAL TO LINE IN ON YOUR AMP!!!!!!!!!!
(Not that you did that, of course, but I just thought I let GUSsers know
that it's bad practice to do so for a BJT amp. A FET-amp has high-input
impedance so you can get away with it in that case (most newer amps are
FET's) )
A quick and dirty (and cheap!) solution is to go buy yourself 1) and 8-ohm
L-PAD (stereo) 2) A mini-phono jack (stereo) 3) A mini-phono plug (stereo)
and 4) about 4-feet of shielded 3 conductor wire (2 insulated + 1 ground).
The L-PAD should be rated for about 4 watts peak or better, and should also
have a knob. The wire should be at least 20 guage. Here's how to connect:
(By the way, this is really easy, all you need is a soldering iron, a wire
stripper, a drill and about an hour.)
Step 1. Prepare two lengths (2 feet) of cabling by stripping at least an inch
of outer insulator off each end. Then strip about 1/4" off each wire
inside. (Remove the shield foil as well, and twist the ground wire
together.)
Step 2. Working with one cable, connect one end to the plug. Do this by solder-
ing the ground wire to the long-lead terminal, the next wire (choose
a color) to the center-lead terminal and the remaining wire to the
tip-lead terminal. Now, put this cable aside and grab the other one.
Perform the same type of connections on the jack (long, center and
tip leads) making sure to connect the right color in the right place.
If you have any doubt, check your connections with an ohmmeter or
test-light.
Step 3. At this point, we will assume that the two wire colors are red and
white. Your stereo L-PAD should have two sets of three terminals on it,
labelled 1, 2 and 3. Solder the ground wire on the free end of the
JACK cable to one of the #1 terminals, and solder the ground wire on
the PLUG cable to the other #1 terminal of the L-PAD. Finish the ground
connection by soldering a short jumper between both #1 terminals. Then,
solder the (PLUG cable) red wire to #3 on the first set. Solder the
(JACK cable) red wire to #2 on the first set. Next, solder the (PLUG
cable) white wire to #2 on the second set of terminals and finally,
connect (yes, solder) the (JACK cable) white wire to #3 on the second
set. Connecting the right colored wire to a terminal is necessary to
ensure correct polarity of your speakers/headphones.
Now you are ready to install your new "attenuator" into your PC.
Step 4. A good place to mount your L-PAD is in a free drive bay plastic cover.
If you used all your bays, then just throw out your CD-ROM and make
room! But seriously though, pop out the cover and drill a hole just
large enough to insert the L-PAD shaft. Tighten down with the supplied
nut and press the knob on (in an appropriate position.) Snap the cover
back in place, and route the cables out through the back of your PC.
All that remains is to plug the jack into the GUS's AMP-OUT and your
headphones/speakers into the new jack and VOILA!
Some notes: Alternatively, you could mount the jack on the front cover as well,
or even on the back of the machine, to make a more professional-looking
job. (I mounted my output jack on a free card-slot cover on the back.)
If you are using headphones, you will notice a certain non-linearity
to the attenuation of the sound. This is due to a mismatch in L-PAD
and headphone impedance, but is totally harmless. This project is also
great for those who record and play music. The ideas here may be
extended to allow other connections on your GUS to be mounted on the
front cover. For example, on my PC, I have one 1/4" stereo mic jack,
one 1/4" stereo headphone jack, and two pairs of RCA jacks for line
in/out. I find these connections to be MUCH easier to deal with when
I want to sample or play something through the stereo system.
One other tip: I recommend the use of a line-level ground loop
isolator when connecting line-out to your sound system. It cleans up
most hum and motherboard noise you might otherwise experience.
FINAL NOTE: I ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGES (physical, psycological
or otherwise) RESULTING FROM THE USE OF ANY INFORMATION GIVEN HERE, EXPRESSED
OR IMPLIED. (I always wanted to write one of those... :-)
Happy GUSsing!
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Steve Larson, Department of Computer Engineering, University of Alberta
larson@bode.ee.ualberta.ca c311-47@ucs.ualberta.ca (if bode bounces)
------------------------------
Date: 23 Oct 93 10:15:00 PST
From: EBULALACAO@CSUPomona.Edu
Subject: Re: GUS Daily Digest V7 #22
The GUS does have a speed compensating game port. I purchased the MIDI
box from Gravis ($40 US) and it had two game ports on it...worked fine.
They also have just a Y-adapter if you don't want the MIDI box...I think
the adapter costs $15 US. Lets you have two joysticks...
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1993 18:25:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: Phat H Tran <ptran@sciborg.uwaterloo.ca>
Subject: Re: GUS Daily Digest V7 #22
> Date: Fri, 22 Oct 93 00:03:46 EST
> From: John Fulmer <quixote@metrobbs.com>
> Subject: Composers.....
>
> Does anyone know of some good MOD and 669 composition programs that wil
> will work with GUS?
>
> I suppose MODed will, but I really want a good 669 program. Farandole
> doen't like my VGA card and Composer669 doesn't recognize my GUS as a
> sound blaster (even with SBOS 2.0b10)
>
If you can pull yourself away from 669's, you might want to take a
look at UltraTracker. It uses a proprietary format, like Farandole,
but it might like your VGA card better.
BTW, there's a GUS-music digest for such questions.
> Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1993 11:05:40 MST
> From: "Dean C. Johnson" <JOHNSODC@caedm.et.byu.edu>
> Subject: Does the GUS support dual joysticks?
>
> I plan to buy a GUS one of these days, probably for Christmas.
> I read that the GUS has a speed compensating Game Port, but I
> have not been able to find out if the port supports dual joysticks(I
> know most sound cards do not). Can anyone tell me if you can hook
> up the Gravis GamePad to the GUS and use all four buttons, or hook
> up a Y-connector cable and use two joysticks at once? I have a dual
> joystick speed compensating Game Card but it would be great if I
> could use the GUS instead.
Yes, the GUS' gameport has lines for two joysticks, although you'll
still need a y-splitter. If you plan on buying the Gravis MIDI box,
you should note that it has a built-in y-splitter already.
> Date: Fri, 22 Oct 93 18:46:40 +0200
> From: tjakobs@mswe.dnet.ms.philips.nl (THEO_JAKOBS TEL.62667)
> Subject: Help needed with that darn GUS.
>
> Hi..
>
> I have my GUS now for some time, and mods and demos sound terrific, but last
> night when i installed RETURN TO ZORK, ultramid (wich is included with the ga-
> me didn't recognize my GUS.. it said that the ultrasound card wasn't located.
> I have the old disks (with SBOS 1.2)... Do i need the new disks?
Yes. The 1.20 disks do not have many of the patch files that Ultramid
needs.
> Date: Fri, 22 Oct 93 14:56:56 -0500
> From: "David Grayless" <grayless@shell.com>
> Subject: Is GUS picking up steam or losing steam?
>
> So what's the story here? Is this product too new? (its been out over a year)
> Will it ever become a mainstream sound option for PC's, or is it destined to
> only be a niche oddity? Is it on the verge of being discontinued?
>
Many stores have been turned off by the GUS because of the initial software
that the card was shipped with. If a store you know no longer carries the
GUS, tell them that the GUS package has improved significantly.
Game makers are just starting to support the GUS, and it'd be a shame for
stores to stop carrying it at this stage.
The GUS is not being discontinued. A lot of new things will come out for
it soon.
Phat.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1993 13:47:18 +22311151 (CDT)
From: read@utpapa.ph.utexas.edu (Dave Read)
Subject: GUS recording under Windows?
I DL'ed GoldWave from EPAS last night, and started playing around with
it, recording some sounds from a microphone, and then from the
pre-amped output on my guitar. Everything worked great, except that
the input levels were awfully low. Then I tried recording with Pocket
Recorder and finally the 'microphone' accessory that comes with
Windows...But all had the same 'low volume' problem.
Does anybody know how to get the GUS to record with a higher input
amplification, or do I have to build an outboard pre-amp to record at
reasonable levels??
Thanks,
Dave
--
Dave Read (read@utpapa.ph.utexas.edu) "When in doubt, sheet it out."
UT-Austin High Energy Physics Grad Student
PGP public key available by 'finger' G O B R A V E S ! !
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 93 12:50:43 EDT
From: dmcintyr@muselab.ac.runet.edu
Subject: Joystick port on GUS
The joystick port you describe (dual joysticks, speed compensating) is
probably a Gravis Eliminator. The Ultrasound, being by Gravis,
incorporates the Eliminator technology into its joystick port so you'll
have all the same advantages and can save a slot by getting rid of the
separate card.
I use a Gravis Gamepad with my GUS and it works just fine.
--Michael-- << dmcintyr@muselab.ac.runet.edu >>
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 93 12:03:00 +0000
From: FINK_MARTIN/HP2000_13@idacom.hp.com
Subject: Re: Microphones and the GUS
In response to Ben Leamy's question about
microphones.....
I tried several microphone borrowed from friends,
and none of them worked. Since the microphones I
had borrowed were all mono, and the mic input on
the GUS is stereo, I tried using a mono to stereo
converter....to no avail. I then went to Radio
Shack and purchased a real stereo microphone. It
actualy has two heads on it. It worked great. Just
make sure that it meets your uni or omni directional
needs.
One word of warning. The GUS Windows drivers incorrectly
report that the GUS is unable to do stereo recording.
Therefore, if you want to record in stereo in Windows
using the mic, use the Goldwave recorder on epas, it
ignores the driver report and instead depends on the
enumeration values reported by the driver.
Gravis has been advised of this 'bug' many times, but for
some reason have refused to acknowledge it.
Martin
mfink@canada.hp.com
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 93 09:21:53
From: matthew.arbeid@gravis.com
Subject: ORDERING GUS VIA (E)MAI
I read this in yesterdays digest...
>I can't find a single local store that carries it. Some used to, but
>say that they no longer carry it. Checking mail-order ads, I can only
>find two places that even list the UltraSound at all. I tried calling
>Advanced Gravis, and was told that "we don't sell direct to customers".
DUNG!!! We DO sell direct to you ... I guess someone got confused.
Just drop me an e-mail note or give me a call and I'll make sure that
you get your order.
As for shipping speed....thanks to a Sandy (one of my fellow techs), we
now have an intergrated sales system. It only went on line on Wendsday
but it looks like it'll speed up our sales process by about 5 grillion
percent.
So ... what are you waiting for?
Enjoying the rainy weekend...
Matthew
Advanced Gravis Tech Support Group
matthew@gravis.com
---
~ QMPro 1.0 05-8925 ~ Advanced Gravis...it's not just a job, it's an
adventure.
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 93 2:17:06 MDT
From: Steve "Bongos" Larson <larson@ee.ualberta.ca>
Subject: stuff...
Mick inquires:
#
# I have two friends who have strong feelings about soundcards.
# The first one recommends I buy a GUS.
# The second one recommends I buy a different brand of card.
#
# Why should I buy a GUS?
I had a Sound Blaster Pro. It sounded disgusting, with its 8-bit
samples and poor musical inclination (FM synthesis). (I'm sure
several others will elaborate here...) I bought it used, unaware of
its inherent evil, and quickly resold it. I got a GUS. Now I don't
think I'd take a SB if you paid me to! Okay, I'll take it off
your hands if you give me, say, five bucks...
# As I said, my first friend recommends it wholeheartedly. However, after
# reading numerous messages here it would seem that the GUS is fairly
# incompatible. (not working properly/at all with various games)
# Any comments?
Listen, sooner or later you will realize that compatibility is
quickly becoming an issue of the past. What the GUS offers users
is a feature-rich sound sysnthesis device technically outweighing
all competitors (except maybe Turtle Beach... NAHH!) for a
ridiculously low price. Consider this: with the aid of the soon-
to-be 16-bit daughtercard, a GUS and a midi-keyboard, you have
more power, versatility and (I dare say) _quality_ than a KORG
M-1 workstation or a ROLAND D-50... etc. (At a *fraction* of the
cost.) But then maybe you're not a musician...
Remember, the GUS is not about compatibility (although it does pretty
well, though IMHO) rather, the future of state-of-the-art in audio
signal processing on your PC!
Don't think about it... just get one (and take your "wiser" friend's
advice.)
"Any friend of GUS is a friend of mine..."
Ben "the Bastard" says:
#
# I still haven't tried to sample on my card (using a mic) since I
# tried it with the little microphone that came with a friends PAS16
# compatiable. It didn't work with that put I have successfully
# sampled using the LINE IN and a personal stereo.
# should the PAS type mic have worked on the GUS?
==> Yes if the mic was stereo (check the plug: 3 conductors)
==> No if the mic is mono (2 conductor)
# is there some specific type of mic that I should try? (dynamic etc)
==> I use a dynamic mic. They usually have flatter and better frequency
response.
# what impedence should I try to get?
==> This shouldn't matter much; most mic's o/p in the mV range, and are
designed for mic-level input.
I don't remeber who wrote: (sorry, I was using VI and it went BURP..)
#
# Basically, the gist of this message is that I would like to know what the
# drams are called? are they 256X1 or 256X4 or what, when I am looking through
# computer shopper to buy some more. (I need to upgrade my new graphics card to
# 2 megs also). All these use the same ram. I know I need 80ns DRAMS, but what
# kind, I cannot find written anywhere in the gravis manual, (there was no
# "offer" with my GUS, though a friend of mine got one with his) and tech support
# is ignoring my e-mail.
==> Buy 44C256 chips. They are 256K X 4bits. I've also seend them called C4256
and C4256A. Just make sure the # has 256, a C and a 4, and you'll be safe.
# --
Happy GUSsing!
Steve Larson, Department of Computer Engineering, University of Alberta
larson@bode.ee.ualberta.ca c311-47@ucs.ualberta.ca (if bode bounces)
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 93 13:26:00 PDT
From: n4zfd!frodo@rylos.n2idf.ampr.org ("James M. Blakely")
Subject: Tiger Software
Someone mentioned that "it was nice to see the GUS in a mainstream catalog"
and told about how the GUS was advertised in Tiger Software's catalog.
This is *not* a good thing. Tiger Software is generally the last stop for a
product before it's pulled from the market -- their line is made up
primarily of closeouts and discontinued items.
Gravis, are you trying to tell us something by placing the GUS with Tiger?
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1993 15:29:32 -0400
From: gt7985c@prism.gatech.edu
I have the Korean version of Street Fighter 2. If I run SBOS the speaks just ne. To make it faster, I run SF2SETUP.EXE and go to Checking Video Speed
(Manual) and you set it to a very low number like 5 to make it fly.
If you have a fast enough computer and/or a local bus video card, you can make
it go much faster than the arcade's Hyper-Fighting.
If you have the USA release, I can't help you yet because I haven't aquired it yet.
------------------------------
End of GUS Daily Digest V7 #23
******************************
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